For my only likely 3 Michelin star meal of 2019, coming off of a relatively disappointing 2-star experience, I was ready for some outstanding food and service. Unfortunately, I was also exhausted from a four-day conference with Google, which had ended earlier in the morning. Still, there was no way I was going to miss my reservation at Manresa.
The restaurant, fronted by celebrated chef David Kinch, is tucked away outside of San Jose, in the smaller city of Los Gatos — an unexpected location for such a prestigious venue. I could go course by course, but as the menu changes on a relatively regular basis, I would rather look at the meal as a whole. So, how does Manresa rate?
Pros
- Service. Service. Service. Y’all….. Mary was, and might be, one of the best servers I’ve ever had the pleasure of dining with. Honestly, I’m wondering if she was well trained, a mind reader, or had maybe read some of my previous reviews (doubtful, I know). Why was the service so exceptional?
- To start, this service extended to avoiding my ‘dislikes.’ When asked if I had any allergies, I mentioned my aversion to oysters, mussels, and clams. Noting that I didn’t have any specific dietary restrictions, more that I didn’t want to offend the kitchen by not finishing a dish, Mary mentioned it would not be a problem at all to exchange individual plates. There was an oyster course, but I received an equally delicious vegetarian course and was pleased with the late substitution. In fact, it ended up being one of my favorite dishes of the meal.
- The best approach to a ‘left-hand switch’ I’ve ever experienced. I’ve written about this phenomenon before (and how really, it’s overlooked at almost every restaurant I visit, no matter the awards, stars, or city). Essentially, Mary recognized my left-handedness, and each course, more or less asked where I wanted the cutlery. She even joked the placement was ‘a suggestion.’ Look, being left-handed is something I deal with literally every day, but I’ve never had such a personalized response.
- A personal touch at each table. While Mary seamlessly looked after multiple tables, I could hear her interaction with almost each of them. She greeted each diner with precisely the same level of enthusiasm. She integrated other staff when necessary. I love a restaurant that really welcomes you into their space. Manresa has clearly trained its staff to fully interact with their guests, and it shows. As I mention to anyone who will listen, diners are always giving out signals of how they want to enjoy their meal.
- Working with my timing. Although I was delighted to get an early reservation (hurrah for all the U.S. restaurants which open at 5:30!), I also had some anxiety about getting to the airport on time (especially in a city I don’t know). As soon as I sat down, Mary confirmed that I needed to leave between 7:30 and 8 PM (with 8 PM being the absolute latest). While this did condense my meal by about 45 minutes, by the luxury of being a solo diner, the entire team was able to make things work, without rushing me or making me feel that I had compromised my experience in any way. I even got a trip to the kitchen.
- Helping with my luggage. Yes, although I’ve only seen it happen at Noma, and I was ‘that guy’ at Manresa. No one made me feel weird for bringing a large piece of luggage, and yes, Mary helped me out to my Uber with it. Was that expected? Not in the least. Was it appreciated? Absolutely.
- Immaculate plating. I think fine dining at this level requires picture-perfect plates, and the kitchen Manresa lived up to the challenge in spades. The portion size was also perfect.
- Depth upon depth. Nothing on the plate was out of place, with each of the ingredients adding something.
- Something for the road. I always love something to take home from an experience like this one, and Manresa was no different. Not only was the restaurant happy to comply with letting me take pictures of my petit fours (that I was too full to eat), but they also individually (!) wrapped them. In a branded bag, I also received a handful of delicious and homemade vanilla and sea salt taffy, and a box of homemade granola (which my Dad ate the next morning in Portland).
- A true journey. The meal started in a certain way and ended on a similar note. I love cohesiveness.
Cons
- Real talk, I didn’t love every dish, which I think it’s worth mentioning this for anyone who might consider a degustation. Of course, this is to be expected, because palates are different and food is subjective (crazy, I know). For example, while the duck course was wonderfully smoky, it was almost too rich for me. The duck was followed by sweetbreads, and the overall ‘heaviness’ of both dishes was practically overwhelming (for me, at least).
So, what was the price of the meal? It’s the same as Vespertine (USD$295), but I somehow felt the experience at Manresa was (clearly) more worth the amount. I did appreciate how both restaurants allowed diners to preselect gratuity as well. Unlike Vespertine, I did not pay a supplement for petit fours/post-dinner experience. Similar to Vespertine, a glass of champagne added an additional USD$40 to the cost.
Would I go back to Manresa? Yes, if in the south Bay area, it is definitely worth a trip (and I’d love to have the time for the full experience).
Who is Manresa best for? True fine dining lovers. Anyone with something to celebrate.
Looking for more Michelin meals? Try the Visit California page.
