As mentioned previously, I did little to no planning for our recent adventure to Prague. With the exception of a reservation for our meal at Eska, we played the rest of the trip by chance. Eska, part of the Ambiente group, was recommended by several friends. Additionally, having both a look at the menu and noting its Bib Gourmand status with Michelin, I decided this was a good choice for our first dinner in the Czech Republic.
Located a bit off the beaten path, Hubs and I enjoyed our walk over to Eska. Spread over two floors, we were seated upstairs, overlooking the central courtyard. Except for the pair behind us, the diners seemed to be mostly locals, something I always take as a good sign. The decision to try the eight-course degustation with was already a given, so we settled back to enjoy the evening. After a few small bites (as well as some crazy delicious bread and butter), Cucumbers were up first, and while both Hubs and I were looking for more crunch, we agreed the char was quite nice. The Beef tartare, more or less a staple in the city, was a small perfect bite. As what would become a theme throughout our meal (and most of our dishes in Prague), we continually wanted for a touch of salt on every plate. Given this practice of under seasoning seemed pervasive for everywhere we went, we basically concluded that Czechs prefer their food this way.
Far and away our favorite course was the vegan (!) Zucchini and sunflower pesto. Honestly, I don’t know what was in the pesto, but it was the perfect blend of crunchy, umami, and earthy. We loved it so much that we’re going to try and recreate the dish at home, which is a first. Following the zucchini was a bonus dish, not on the menu — a serving of rice ‘risotto.’ While perfectly nice and vegetarian, given the sheer amount of food in the tasting menu, I’m not sure how entirely necessary it was. The Trout, served with an incredibly fresh tomato, was next. Honestly, I don’t like trout, and there’s not a preparation I’ve had yet that’s going to convince me this fish is worth ordering. Still, the tomato was at the peak of taste, so there was something redeemable on the plate. For the next course, much like our visit to Core the previous summer, the star of the show wasn’t a protein, but instead a humble potato (officially Potatoes in ash). Much like the luxury dish in London, the creamy elements on the plate balanced against the starchiness of the potato. If anything, against the other portions, the potato was a bit filling, and we probably could have split one plate between us. Our last main, the Duck, was forgettable; it’s barely been a week and I’m struggling to recall any part about it. The only inedible dish of the day was a bizarre transitional Cheese dish, served with pumpkin puree and berries. On no level did this work, sorry friends. What did work wonderfully was the fresh Apricot, with honey and cream, our last course of the meal. Served with hand-brewed coffee (served tableside), it was a lovely finish to the dinner.
Overall, I was most impressed by the focus on vegetarian and even vegan dishes, which dominated the menu at Eska. Additionally, the pricing, CZR1900, is entirely reasonable. Staff were friendly, and our sommelier was quite knowledgable. Given how full we were at the end, I think cutting back by a course, or making a few dishes smaller might be worth considering (I doubt anyone would notice).
I do have notes, and understand why the venue isn’t quite Michelin ready (if that’s even a goal for the team at Eska). Although there were eight courses, the meal seemed to stretch on just a bit longer than necessary. This could be because it was a long day for us, but also we went almost an hour past when I thought we would finish. Also, with the strange ‘interlude’ of an extra (unnecessary) course, delivered at the wrong time was a bit awkward for everyone. And, while I’m certainly not going take any points off for our not knowing Czech, I think the meal might have been more enhanced with a better understanding of the language and what exactly was being served. All of these points are minor and did not distract from the overall experience. Reading other reviews, it seems I agree with the majority of visitors — that Eska is perfectly lovely but just shy of perfect (a la Field).
Would I go back to Eska? While I think some editing can be done on the tasting menu, yes, I think it’s worth checking out.
Who is Eska best for? Anyone in the mood for a genuinely seasonal meal.
Where is your favorite fine dining in Prague?
