Going to Brno, located a lovely two-hour train ride from Prague, I had a list of places to consider. I wasn’t sure how hungry we would be on arrival, and also, I managed to get a super annoying cold. I hadn’t booked anything specific in the city, but we had suggestions from a local friend of Hubs to help guide us a bit (plus, Hubs had been the year before, and had a general idea of what was good in Brno).
Located just off one of the major squares, we walked into Atelier Cocktail and Bistro a few minutes before noon. Honestly, I was delighted to see so many people eating lunch before 12. Brno is clearly my kind of place. Even though there are crowds just outside the door, Atelier is set back in a beautiful courtyard, allowing for some respite (just my speed). Deciding to sit outside, we have a quick peek inside the establishment, which, like the exterior, is full of cool art. As we take a seat, the proprietor, Milan, is the one to look after us throughout the meal. While most people are stopping in for the lunch deal, Hubs and I (of course), decided to opt for the six-course degustation. Like Field, we’re happy this menu is available for lunch.
We started with Beets, which, honestly, I had been waiting to happen during our trip. Served simply, I appreciated there wasn’t much to be done to them. Served up with smoked carp and slightly bitter horseradish leaf, I enjoyed the simplicity of the dish. Next up was a small serving of luxurious Bone Marrow. Placed on freshly baked bread, it was the tanginess from the capers that took this dish to the next level. We then moved on to an interesting preparation of Gnocchi, made with wheat instead of the usual potato. Although the gnocchi was a bit dense/dry, the sauce helped balance the dish. We’ve already discussed my lack of love for Trout (especially when having to remove bones at the table – gross!), but the fish dish included an outstanding beurre blanc sauce and accompaniment of fresh vegetables. If it were my kitchen, I’d toss out the trout altogether and work up from the veggies and sauce, but that’s just me. We finished the savory courses with a bit of Suckling Pig, which was a generous serving, although perhaps a bit too ‘traditional’ for me. The brown bits of not quite gravy/not entirely black pudding was not a very nice texture on my palate. Ahem. After one of the freshest strawberry granitas I’ve ever consumed, we finished with a slightly strange and jiggly Panna cotta, which I would also consider replacing, especially after the knock out strawberries.
With a total cost of CZR1550 (including six courses and six drinks, including some extra drinks – thanks, Milan!), like everywhere else in the Czech Republic, Atelier offers a bargain. Unlike our other degustations, I was very impressed by Atelier’s ‘risk’ at serving more than just wine in the pairing, but more importantly, the wines used in the pairing were all from the Czech Republic. Honestly, both Field and Eska have something to learn from Atelier in this regard.
Given how busy lunch seemed to be, service took a little longer than necessary, and I don’t specifically remember any music, but overall, I’m quite happy that the one restaurant I chose happened to be such a good one. While not everything was perfect, it felt like we were supporting a genuine local business, which added to the overall experience.
Would I go back to Atelier Cocktail and Bistro? I would. I think opting for lunch as we did was the best choice.
Who is Atelier Cocktail and Bistro best for? Those looking for slightly elevated, but still homestyle food.
Where is your favorite restaurant in Brno?
