When planning my trip to Los Angeles, I made a long list of venues to visit (literally, twenty restaurants). While I now wish I had done a bit more to find a POC/WOC kitchen to dine at, I’ll admit, I was swayed by the amount of accolades Vespertine has received. Two stars? Best restaurant in Los Angeles? Awards of best atmosphere? This venue had a lot going for it. Although I had been disappointed by my other two-star experience earlier this year (I’m looking at you, Patrick Guilbaud), my optimism was once again high. Of course, given I only had limited nights in Los Angeles, I wanted a friend to join me, but, and I’ll get into this below, I couldn’t find anyone to join me. The cost of dinner literally put off every single person I know. I decided to forge ahead with my booking for an ‘otherworldly’ meal, reminding myself that I wasn’t sure when the next time I would be in Los Angeles.
Arrival in Culver City (or anywhere in Los Angeles) is always a bit of struggle, but the Eric Owen Moss building stands as a behemoth on the street. I decide to go with street parking (mostly because I don’t have small bills to tip the valet). As I am #foreveralone, I think it’s easy for the host to know who I am, but I am still always delighted to be greeted by name. As I’m 3 minutes ahead of schedule, I am seated on one of the heated benches in the garden, then whisked into the building for the carefully orchestrated meal. Lifts open and appear if by magic, and I’m greeted personally by chef Jordan Kaan, who welcomes me.
As with similar degustations, the meal is broken into snacks (upstairs in the cozy deck on the top level), then dinner in the main dining room, and finally, an after-dinner experience (yes, at an extra cost).
So, how do I feel about the meal? Thre’s a lot to unpack, so let’s get started!
Pros
- The space is absolutely amazing. There is no denying that architect Eric Owen Moss did something truly awesome with the lot. A venue completely unto itself, there isn’t a lot in the city (any city) that can say the same. Does the building really have an impact on the meal? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Basically, you’re overlooking warehouses and other buildings in Culver City, so the elevated space doesn’t add a lot. While I loved (!) the coziness of the top-level, I felt the dining room was weirdly stark, almost to the point of being offputting.
- I think there are real accessibility issues across the outlet (I had to walk upstairs to access the top level, and stairs were also mostly used for people to access the bathroom on the ground floor), and I think fine dining should be available to everyone.
- While the ‘theme music’ throughout the space was nice, it was also a bit like being in a spa for three hours.
- Beautiful plating. While I might not agree with the taste of everything, the plating of dishes was nothing short of gorgeous. With often dynamic and artistic approaches, there is no question of the level of skill. Each plate was a bit of a piece of art.
- Use of local ingredients. Although part of the description, I could definitely tell that whenever possible, a focus on California produce was highlighted (and really wouldn’t expect things any other way).
- Attention to detail. Cold? There’s a cozy blanket (both upstairs and outside in the garden). The table? It retracts easily, allowing the ability to slide in and out of the booth. Knowing my name on arrival? Check. Fun takeaway? Yes, I got a small vial of perfume to take home.
Cons
- A complete lack of connection with the diners. Readers will know that servers’ ability to connect with me (or any diner) is something I rank as a very important part of the overall dining experience. As a two Michelin star restaurant, my expectations are already very high. While yes, the team knew my name when I walked up, that’s where the ‘personality’ of the team ended. Dishes were presented quite formally, and then I was left on my own. It’s worth mentioning Dax here (again) because solo dining didn’t have to be such a chore. I stay busy with photography and social media, but at Dax, I never felt alone. A similar experience occurred at Gaggan, where I could literally witness the service staff to identify what diners were interested in and shift their attention accordingly. For the price point at Vespertine, I feel this is imperative and was surprised at the service approach (I have to believe it was on purpose).
- The cost. Y’all, this is among the most expensive restaurants I’ve ever visited. Without alcohol, it still comes close to Attica (yikes). That’s USD295 for the meal (no pairing), USD30 for the afternoon dinner experience’ and USD40(!!!) for a glass of sparkling wine. Yes, the tasting menu is inclusive of service, but adding the pairing will add an additional USD200. Is it worth the price? Personally, I don’t think so.
- Too cool 4 skool. Or, that time I went to the bathroom and used mouthwash instead of soap. To be fair, the soap looked like detergent, so… Similarly, while I don’t mind not seeing a menu for degustation, I think one at the end of the meal is always appreciated. I only received a copy of the menu three days after my visit.
- Not a lot that I actually liked. It’s only been a week since I dined at Vespertine, and I really can’t remember much of the meal. While on the whole, I appreciated the technique when plates didn’t hit, they really didn’t (too salty, bizarro textures, overwhelming flavors, weirdly bland dishes, to name a few).
Special thanks to Visit California for their contributions. Visit their website if you’re planning a trip any time soon!
Would I go back to Vespertine? Well, I think that depends on who is paying…
Who is Vespertine best for? Appreciative foodies. People with generous expense accounts.
Do you have a favorite restaurant in Southern California?
