I’ll admit, I did not have particularly high culinary expectations for our recent trip to Tbilisi. Yes, I knew we’d find plenty of bread and cheese, but that’s about where my rather naive thoughts ended. Did we end up in some less than memorable locations? Sure, but overall the trip was a lot of fun, and full of extraordinary food and drinks. I’d also like to mention none of this trip was sponsored or discounted — it was a self-guided, hit or miss, visit.
Taste Georgia
I cannot say enough about our day tour with Taste Georgia. Tipped off by a few smart travelers, I was in touch with owner Sarah Grunwald and found her easy to work with. We booked the full day Kartli package, which had us picked up at 9 AM and involved wine, chacha (pronounced more like ja ja), culture, and food. As it was a friend’s birthday, I was anxious to ensure everything went right — after all, you only turn 30 once. Fortunately, our tour guide and driver provided a wonderful day in Georgia, including our most memorable meal of the trip at a winemaker’s home. Although language was a bit of a barrier, the sentiment and generosity of our host was one of my favorite memories from the trip (homemade honey vodka FTW!). I wouldn’t hesitate to book with this company again for any of their tours.
Cafe Stamba
Connected to chic and recently opened Stamba Hotel (a destination I wouldn’t hesitate to stay in, if I were ever back in town). While I wasn’t able to meet up with a travel professional friend of mine, who was also in the city in conjunction with the Georgian tourism board, he did say we had to stop by his hotel, and I’m so glad he encouraged us to visit. While they were unfortunately booked for dinner (during soft launch, no less), there was plenty of us to have a drink at the bar/lounge. Walking in, we were all immediately infatuated with the fit out of the former publishing house. Although there was outdoor space, we stuck to the bar, trying quite a bit of the cocktail menu, and chatting with the friendly staff. The cool factor is off the charts here, so make plans to enjoy a drink or meal at some point during your stay. Bonus points? Try your luck at the Aviator Casino — located just off the lobby of the hotel.
The Kitchen
Tucked into Rooms Hotel (which neighbors Stamba), we found our way across an enclosed parking lot (yes, this is the quickest way, according to the helpful staff), to the candlelit Kitchen. The menu was relatively limited, but we all found something of interest. While the starters hit across the board, unfortunately, the mains left half of the table a bit disappointed — pasta does not seem to be a strong point for the kitchen (pun intended). Fortunately, my steak was a treat, and overall, I think the venue is definitely one to add to your list. If not for a meal, then for a drink at the lush downstairs Garden Bar or hipster Bar Room, near the entrance.
Barbarestan
If you look on Trip Advisor, you will undoubtedly find Barbarestan towards the top of the list for the best restaurants in the city — and for good reason. This one of a kind, based on an aristocratic Georgian feminist’s cookbook (read the article I wanted to write here), the menu could not be more authentic. The staff were wonderfully friendly, and the cozy atmosphere is a fantastic place to visit for lunch or dinner. Be sure to make reservations, as the popular venue fills up quickly.
Wine Observatory
Downstairs (like, in the basement) of the Iota Hotel (another funky place to visit), we found a chicly designed wine cellar. Done in the same brutal modern style as the hotel, the range of wines was something approaching epic. As we explained our various taste preferences to the staff sommelier, he presented us with different options (and VERY generous pours). Keep this one for a rainy day, or a fantastic place to start (or end) the night. If you’re hungry, order one of the cheese or charcuterie plates, or pop upstairs to Cafe Iota for some standard Georgian fare, as well as international selections.
Chela
At the top of the funicular (or funiculator, as I like to call it) is the Mtatsminda Amusement Park, and a number of restaurants, including Chela, which serves up a number of Georgian delicacies. We came for the view and were relatively impressed with the food. If the weather is good, make plans to head to the top and visit for lunch, a snack, or a drink. It was here that we fell in love with the local dumpling, khinkali, a savory doughy bite that is the perfect start to any meal.
For the record, we dropped by Xeme and found it deeply wanting (as one of our friends said, “this reads like a room service menu” and she wasn’t wrong). Similarly, Dining Room was also highly rated but we found completely lacking and La Boheme (the top rated restaurant on Trip Advisor) had some beautiful plates and a good price, but I wouldn’t make a return visit for the dishes.
Overall, we commented how Tbilisi and Georgia continued to grow on us throughout the trip, and are considering another trip back soon. It’s worth noting that many of the restaurants do NOT include an 18% VAT (which should be disclosed directly on the menu). Additionally, and I cannot recommend this enough — if you’re going to Georgia, download the Taxify app (you can use my code here). Without Uber, Taxify is the easiest, safest and cheapest way of getting around. We used it multiple times a day, and never had any issues.
Have you been to Tbilisi? What was your favorite restaurant?
