With only two free meals available on my recent press trip to Dublin with Bord Bia, having heard some honest feedback from a friend, I decided not to give Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud my only dinner, but instead, to book a lunch seating. Ultimately, I think it was the right choice…for a number of reasons. In comparison to my meal at Dax, which was engaging, elevated, and overall a memorable experience, my meal at two-starred Patrick Guilbaud was stilted, a bit awkward, and formulaic. It’s as if someone went down the list of what a Michelin experience should be and I could literally see what boxes needed to be ticked. Was the food good? Of course it was. Is that the entire point of dining out? No, it’s not.
To start, I was shown to the dark reception area (which most likely reads better during winter months when a cozy area is more appreciated) and left with both a drink and food menu, with a gentle explanation that both a la carte and a two or three-course meal are available. Seated just a bit longer than was necessary, I overheard another table being asked if they wanted to enjoy a drink on the terrace. When I was finally seen to, I also inquired if I could sit on the patio and was promptly escorted out to the beautiful area — truly a special and unexpected location in the bustling city. From there, everything went as scheduled, but I felt a distinct lack of personality in the staff, barring one or two of the nearly seven people I interacted with. I’m not sure if it was the training or a conscious decision, but the warmth of the team at Dax became even more apparent in comparison to the Patrick Guilbaud servers.
Seated in the formal dining room, once at my table, the meal started with a lovely amuse bouche, a bit of Hazelnut foam, expertly prepared. From there, I had choices for the three-course lunch (EUR62) and the sommelier (?) was kind enough to set up a small pairing for me (EUR40 for 3 half glasses). I quickly decided on the Risotto, Duck, and a Honey parfait. These dishes also included the amuse bouche, fresh bread (four varieties with butter), and petit fours (as expected). The presentation was at a top level, and the flavors in each dish are more subtle than forward. There was depth in everything, and the level of complication on the parfait made me want to applaud the pastry chef. Unlike the unforgettable stuffed courgette from Dax, I didn’t have a particular favorite dish among my lunch options at Patrick Guilbaud, and none of the plates are going to make my ‘dish of the month’ for July 2019 (which I fully expected at least one to make the list).
Honestly, I’m not sure if it’s because I was spoiled by my dinner at Dax the night before, or some of the many fantastic restaurants we’ve visited in Amsterdam, but there just wasn’t ‘enough’ at Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud to keep me interested. Rather than our memorable lunch at the Ledbury last summer, the team at RPG came off as going through the motions. Additionally, and I still am not sure why, there was no music playing at the restaurant, which made the ambiance all a bit awkward/low energy. I completely understand wanting to maintain a particular atmosphere, but in this instance, I think some low key soundtrack would add a much-needed spark.
I’m still not entirely sure why the meal was such a mismatch. It’s rare for me to have such a disconnect, but perhaps this is on me for not searching out a kitchen with a minority chef.
Would I go back to Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud? Honestly, not any time soon. While it was pleasant enough, overall, there was no spark, and I didn’t feel much of a connection, other than objectively dining on lovely food. Based on my lunch, I’m not particularly tempted back for dinner.
Who is Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud best for? People chasing those stars… (Yes, that’s exactly why I went).
What is your favorite fine-dining venue in Dublin?
