Winding through the busy streets of Bangkok, our Uber driver turned down a quiet road and dropped us off at what he thought was a grocery store. Fortunately for us, it was one of Gaggan‘s restaurants, Meatlicious (led by Chef Jorge, who spent a good portion of the evening talking to us about his experiences, culinary and otherwise).
With an extensive list of beers, rustic seating and a beautiful outdoor courtyard, we opted for outside seating and settled at one of the picnic tables (more room for photos, natch). Reviewing the menu (vegetarians, I guess you can already figure out this might not be the best place for you), there were a few options that we ordered straight away: Eataly (Burrata, THB490, we split a half portion), Corn on the Cob (THB90), and Foie Gras Breakfast (THB450). The burrata yielded something I would’ve never considered adding to the dish, that is, burnt grapes. Honestly, it was a fantastic addition — the sweet and smoky flavors complemented the creamy cheese (I know it sounds like it wouldn’t work, but trust me, it does and I’m totally going to steal it when preparing this dish in the future!). Now, I did mention that Foie Gras would redeem itself after a rather disastrous course at La Normandie earlier in the day. While the thought of Foie Gras served as creme brulee was not particularly appetizing, I can tell you the reality of it was something entirely delicious. Friends, the caramelization of the foie gras (blended to a smooth consistency), combined with cherry compote and toasted, buttery brioche bread is the luxury appetizer you’ve been missing your whole life. Too rich for one person, I would suggest splitting with a friend. Served last, the corn on the cob was, to me, the weakest of the three starters. As I’m a big fan of Mexican street corn, I hoped for more crema, cilantro, cheese…something. The rock salt and lime just didn’t go far enough for me.
For mains, we tried the Argentine Chimichurri (THB1190, enough for two people) and Meatlicious Roast Chicken (THB550). Y’all, I think we’ve established I’ve been able to enjoy a steak or two in the recent past. Having had all cuts and kinds, I found the Argentine steak at Meatlicious holding its own. Grilled, juicy, and perfectly complemented with the spicy(ish) chimichurri sauce (accompanied by root vegetables), this was a perfect plate to split. I wish I could get as excited about the chicken…but to start, it was mildly unappetizing (sorry, seeing a chicken head and feet is just…a bit too real for me). The meat, while tender and spicy (the rub coating the chicken is a bit intense) was difficult to separate from the bone (like, a lot of effort). I’m all for rustic dishes, but this one just a bit too much (even if the presentation was something out of a cookbook).
Finally, for dessert, we opted for the Burnt Ice Cream (THB350). Baked and filled with both strawberry and raspberry sorbet, this was a light not too sweet dish to end the night on.
Would I go back to Meatlicious? Certainly if I lived in Bangkok, I would stop in to enjoy a low key, laid back evening. Is is worth stopping in if you’re visiting the city? If, like us, you needed a break from the fine dining scene, I think this restaurant is worth the effort. However, in a world full of incredible street food and hawker stalls, I think that’s a decision you’ll have to make for yourself.
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