In Dubai, as is often the case, the launch of a new hotel arrives with a host of new F&B outlets. In the case of Emerald Palace Kempinski (the long-awaited resort on the Palm Jumeirah), with a fair number of keys, there are plenty of outlets to keep guests and visitors happy. I’ll be visiting a few in the following weeks and was excited to start with Matagi.
Billed as Asian fusion, the restaurant is done in dark wood with an open plan, and the menu has a bit of everything ranging from robata grill to sushi. After being shown to our table, Hubs and I are happy to jump into the cocktail menu, where there are plenty of unique choices. I start and enjoy the Way of the Shinobi (rum and a slight amount of cilantro are the star flavors here, which shouldn’t work, but completely does). At AED75, the drink feels about 15 dizzles too much. I later try the Osaka Mule, AED78 and Hubs opts for the Matagi spin on the Old Fashioned, AED85 (because, of course), before trying a Rolling Like a Panda, AED80, which ends up containing a considerable amount of ice. Given the disappointment, he switches to beer. Overall, I like what’s on offer, but, as will become a bit of a theme, the price point feels a touch high (even for the property).
After a review of the menu, we jump straight into cold starters. Our first dish to arrive is the Salmon and Caviar Nirigi, AED115. While the ingredients were luxurious, the salmon was served room temperature, as a personal preference, I like my fish (especially salmon, or any sushi dish) to be presented chilled or cool. Furthermore, even with the level of ingredients, there was a considerable lack in depth of flavor that we both notice. I’ll let you decide if the price is right for two pieces. One dish definitely worth ordering is the Butter Poached Lobster and Kale Salad, AED95. Although I would prefer a bit more lobster to kale in my ratio, the dressing was not too heavy and it was our favorite of the cold dishes. The Wagyu beef and Truffle Tataki, AED88 was a bit too forward in its truffle oil flavors to be entirely enjoyable (and also a bit awkward to eat). If I’m being honest, from the cold starters, the salad is the only dish I would order again.
For warm starters, our server points us in the direction of the Foie Gras Wagyu gyoza, AED98, which were, admittedly, delicious, and the sauce (packed with umami) is a particularly lovely accompaniment. We also decide on Sweet and Sour Sea Bass (AED145), Scallops Skewer (AED175 – !) and Chicken Thighs Yakitori (AED65). Most unfortunately, the scallops are served (much like the nigiri) at a puzzling temperature – lukewarm. In fact, lukewarm to the point that I really consider sending them back as the interior of the scallop is only just cooked. We don’t finish the dish, and at AED175, I’m questioning how this presentation of scallops will go over with others. Fortunately, while not particularly photogenic, the sea bass turns out alright — although Hubs and I both wish for more crispiness in the fish skin (perhaps because the description reads, ‘crispy fried seabass’). The portion is the largest we’ll receive throughout the evening. Finally, the chicken thighs are served at the correct temperature, but I long for more of a sweet glaze on the outside. All things being equal, I would most likely only order the gyoza again, although the price point on the chick thighs at least feels fair.
For mains, although I am full, Hubs is training for a half marathon and is thus is happy to order the Slow Braised Black Onyx Short Rib, AED240. With this, we ask for Bok Choy (AED31), Ratte Potatoes (AED45), and are given Broccolini (AED65) in the mix. Hubs happily devours his short rib, while I nibble on some of the sides. The Bok Choy is outstanding, but the potatoes don’t deliver on really anything (neither crispy nor particularly full of flavor, and I’m missing the kimchi cream which is listed in the ingredients). Similarly, the Broccolini, while pleasant enough, isn’t particularly deserving of its price.
Finally, we agree to split one of the desserts, in this case, the not too sweet Mikan Cheesecake, AED59, and all the points for presentation.
In addition to my comments on the particular dishes (and the aggressive pricing throughout), my suggestions are few — while our server was quite knowledgeable, I think the pacing of our meal was a bit intense. Whether that was from the kitchen, or because I was reviewing, I’m not sure. I’d hope there was a bit more balance for other diners. Although we were the only table for the first half hour or so, I prefer plates to arrive a bit more spread out, rather than arriving all at once. Yes, this is for my ability to photograph said dishes, but also, as a diner, to enjoy. Hubs and I checked our phones and it would’ve been possible for us to have been in and out in almost an hour.
Would I go back to Matagi? Maybe, but I’m not in any rush to do so. Although the cocktails were delicious and creative, for those looking for something similar, depending on your part of town — Zuma, Ramusake, or Katana all offer a comparable experience.
Who is Matagi best for? Those looking for a chic evening on the Palm who don’t mind paying a bit for quality ingredients.
A to Za’atar was a guest of Matagi. Opinions are my own, just ask my husband.
What’s your favorite restaurant on the Palm?
