Rooted in Tradition
Parmigiano-Reggiano is one of the oldest and richest cheeses in the world. This cheese is essentially produced in the same way it was nine centuries ago: using the same ingredients (milk, salt, and rennet) with the same craftsmanship and production technique that has undergone very few changes over the centuries. What is produced is an entirely natural product without the use of any (!) additives. Why is this so important? Registered with the European Union, Parmigiano Reggiano is a cheese with Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), i.e., a product that, based on its distinctive characteristics and its tie to the area of origin, is safeguarded by a system provided by the EU to protect consumers and producers alike. So, how is a cheese granted this designation? To start, it has to be produced in a specific area of origin (which includes the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Mantua to the right of the Po river, and Bologna to the left of the Reno River – a surface of approximately 10,000 km2).
The production of cow’s milk, the processing into cheese, the maturation until a minimum age of 12 months, the packaging, and the grating of Parmigiano Reggiano PDO all has to take place exclusively in the area of origin. Furthermore, Parmigiano Reggiano has to be made using artisan and natural methods established in the product regulation and in the strict specifications, which set forth specific production procedures.
What strongly binds Parmigiano Reggiano to its area of origin and makes it so that the same product can be manufactured in no other place in the world are the aspects associated with culture and tradition. It is first and foremost a microbiological characteristic that binds Parmigiano Reggiano to its area of origin. Only raw milk produced in the area of origin is indeed used to make Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. It is a special milk, characterized by a unique and intense bacterial activity of the local microbial flora, influenced by environmental factors, especially by the forage, grass, and hay from the area that accounts for the main feed of the cows dedicated to this specific production. Also, as mentioned above, no additives are used to make Parmigiano Reggiano. This means that during the production process, there are no external actions (for example, no addition of enzymatic additives or bacteria selected in the laboratory) to change the activity of the bacteria that are naturally found in the raw milk produced by the farms in the area of origin. Only the cheese master during processing, thanks to the cheese-making technique, can enhance and favor the lactic bacteria that operate the positive lactic fermentations expected for the success of the cheese-making process.
How far back does the production of Parmigiano Reggiano go? The first written evidence dates back to 1254 in a notarial deed found in the State Archives of Genoa where the caseus parmensis, i.e., the cheese from Parma, is mentioned. The best-known literary evidence dates back to 1344: Giovanni Boccaccio in the Decameron described the district of Bengodi and noted a mountain of “grated Parmesan” on which “Macaroni and ravioli” were rolled, which is a clear indication of the product’s use in the kitchen.
Good for taste and health
This cheese has numerous properties are all linked to the intrinsic product quality: digestibility, high calcium content present in a bioavailable form, absence of additives and preservatives, source of minerals, organoleptic pleasantness, and liking. Due to these characteristics, Parmigiano Reggiano is a fundamental food in the daily diet of everyone, from children to elderly people, including athletes who find in Parmigiano Reggiano an entirely natural energy charge. Thanks to its production process, the King of Cheeses is also naturally lactose-free. How? During production, all its sugar (lactose) is transformed into lactic acid by lactic bacteria.
The feeding of cattle
The cattle producing milk intended for the production of Parmigiano Reggiano follow a specific diet. The Specifications indeed set out that forage should be mostly procured locally. In particular, the specifications establish that at least 50% of the forage used by the cattle should be grown by the dairy farm, and at least 75% should be grown within the production area. The production fabric is almost totally made up of family-run farms that are deeply rooted in the area, so virtually all the forage comes from the farm and the production area. The specifications also provide that the cattle diet be based exclusively on vegetable feeds containing cereals such as barley, wheat, corn from feed manufacturers registered with the Feed Manufacturer List set up by the Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese Consortium.
All additives banned
Want to know where your food comes from? The use of fermented feed to produce Parmigiano Reggiano is absolutely forbidden to feed cattle. Therefore, silage feed is prohibited, while this is primarily used in other parts of Italy. Indeed, this fermented feed leads to the presence of bacteria in milk (clostridia spores that are resistant to heat) that cause harmful fermentations that give rise to defects in the cheese during its lengthy maturation (swelling of the cheese mass caused by undesired development of gas). The only way to prevent these harmful microbial activities is by using additives or physical milk centrifugation techniques. But producers have always opposed the adoption of non-natural practices, and thus the use of any additives in the production of Parmigiano Reggiano is absolutely forbidden. These strict regulations for cattle feeding are essential because it is what cattle eat that leads to quality milk that is suitable to make Parmigiano Reggiano. Furthermore, it is forage that determines the positive “bacterial flora” that establishes the link with the land and characterizes the milk first and the cheese later. Parmigiano Reggiano is a PDO, i.e., Protected Designation of Origin, a product where the word “origin” refers to the area where it is made, which “influences” the product because of this very bacterial activity that is left totally free in Parmigiano Reggiano since there are no additives that can change fermentations and enzymatic activities during its maturation process.
Only three ingredients are used to produce Parmigiano Reggiano: milk, rennet, and salt. Milk is used raw, i.e., it does not undergo heat treatments, and therefore it features all the richness of lactic ferments naturally present in it. The microbial flora composition is influenced by the environmental factors of the area of origin, especially by hay and the specific feeding of cattle. For the production of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, only calf rennet is used; rennet is obtained from the stomach of suckling calves (bacterial rennet is forbidden) and kitchen salt (sodium chloride). The use of any additives and selected bacterial starters is prohibited.
Maturation
Minimum maturation is 12 months, but Parmigiano-Reggiano reaches a degree of maturation that fully expresses its typical characteristics at approximately 24 months. It can mature up to 36, 48 months or longer, acquiring unexpected and unparalleled flavors and aromas. In maturation, thanks to the action of the enzymes released by lactic bacteria, proteins are broken down into smaller pieces, free peptides, and amino acids, the basic bricks of the protein chain. This action of protein breakdown (proteolysis) determines the structure and sensory properties of Parmigiano Reggiano and its digestibility.
The different degrees of maturation give rise to varying aromatic sensations and make it exceptionally versatile in the kitchen and suitable for several preparations and pairings:
- 12- 18 months – Parmigiano Reggiano with 12-18 months of maturation has a harmonious and delicate flavor with milk, yogurt, and fresh fruit scents. It is particularly suitable for aperitifs paired with sparkling white wines or to enrich salads and cold dishes.
- 22-24 months – Parmigiano Reggiano with 22-24 months of maturation is soluble, crumbly, and grainy with the right balance between mildness and tastiness, with notes of fresh fruit, nuts, and meat stock. Perfect with medium body wines and to add flavor to all the dishes of the Italian tradition.
- 30-36 months – Parmigiano Reggiano with 30-36 months of maturation is particularly crumbly and grainy. The flavor is pronounced with notes of spices, nuts, and meat stock. It is an ideal ingredient for filled and baked pastas or to be tasted at the end of meals, paired with fruit and honey.
- More than 40 months – Parmigiano Reggiano, with 40 months, has passed the test of time and releases pleasant scents of spices. It is an exclusive gift and a lovely companion to be tasted with structured and meditation wines.
Some additional facts? The below number are based on 2020 data.
- 2,609 farms supplying milk to the dairies
- 267,000 cattle of more than 24 months of age for milk production
- 2.18 million tons of milk produced
- 20,6% of Italian milk production
- 321 producing dairies
- 3,940,000 wheels produced, corresponding to 160,000 tons
- 50 thousand people involved in the production supply chain
- 2.35-billion-euro turnover at consumption
- 59,524 tons exported
For further information on the Consortium, the product, and the processing: www.parmigianoreggiano.it
As such a versatile product, we enjoyed Parmigiano Reggiano across several restaurants in various dishes and, of course, in its raw state. Suppose you want to plan a similar trip or find yourself in Parma. In that case, I can recommend the following restaurants: Parma Rotta, Ai Due Platani, Cortex Bistrot, and Antica Moka (in Modena, but lovely).
Heading to Italy soon? Consider picking up this Rick Steves guide, an always useful European adapter, or if you’re in the mood for Italian cuisine, this cookbook.
I was an invited guest of Parmigiano Reggiano.
