Few places call to mind the holiday season like the northern expanses of Lapland, located in Finland. There are several ways to travel to Lapland, including direct flights from Dubai to Helsinki via a stylish and modern Finnair (be sure not to miss out on a range of bespoke Finnish branded beverages while on board). Visitors can also connect to Rovenamimi, one of the most northern airports in Finland, via various European cities.
For a complete Finnish experience, Helsinki is an excellent place to begin your journey, and worth stepping out for a few days (if only to get acclimated to the climate and pick up a few extra layers). Although there are plenty of excellent places to stay in the capital city, our top tip is the contemporary and cozy Hotel U14. With friendly staff and an incredible breakfast spread, this property is within walking distance of almost everything. For foodies, there are numerous Michelin-starred restaurants in town, including the tiny one-star and green-star-awarded Restaurant Grön. While the current degustation has plenty of exciting, sustainable, and seasonal dishes, the local wild duck is the most memorable, complete with a moreish broth.
With a few extra layers of clothing, guests must continue north to reach Lapland. Fortunately, plenty of travel options suit any budget or group, including self-drive, direct flights, or a train. With a reasonable price for a sleeping compartment, we opted for the Santa Claus Express, an overnight train to Rovaniemi. Although there are food and drinks to purchase on board, this is also an opportunity to head into a local grocery store to stock up on supplies, including bakery items, sandwiches, and other snacks. Our favorite find is the local korvapuusti (Finnish for “slapped ears”) which are sweet buns made of cinnamon and cardamon-spiced yeasted dough with plenty of butter and are generously sprinkled with pearl sugar.
Once officially in Lapland, when planning for the day’s many adventures ahead, travelers should approach breakfast every morning with a healthy appetite. I fell in love with Karelian pies, a traditional pasty originating from the region of Karelia, which consists of a savory combination of dense bread with a small amount of cheese. The essential ingredients are relatively easy to find, including rye or wheat flour, rice or potatoes, and butter. Personally, I craved a bit of sweetness and topped my pies with lingonberry jam, a unique local treat. For extra protein, guests will also find a range of cured freshwater fish to start their day. Personally, I couldn’t get enough fatty fish. Finally, I enjoyed abundant amounts of blueberry juice for probably the first time in my life. While not as tart as cranberry juice, there are still plenty of antioxidants, which are essentially necessary to stay hydrated.
While on the subject of berries, the strangely colored orange cloudberries are another unique Lapland produce. The berries are included in various dishes, including beverages. Still feeling thirsty? Non-alcoholic Glugge is a perfect hot drink served on arrival at hotels and is available to order throughout different locations. This Lapland specialty combines local Arctic berry juice (lingonberries, raspberries). The mixture is warmed and perfect when coming in from out of the cold.
Another way to warm up? Kaffeost, a “coffee cheese,” might be just the drink to order for visitors who want to stay caffeinated. With dried cheese called juustoleipä, the cheese absorbs into the steaming brew, softening without melting entirely. Though it may be an unlikely pairing for most people, among the Sami people of Lapland and other regions around northern Finland, Norway, and Sweden, sharing a mug of kaffeost is a welcome ritual. Drinkers can spoon the softened chunks out as they sip or enjoy the little cheesy dregs left at the bottom. Regardless of how you enjoy the drink, don’t let the beverage sit too long – cold brew and curds don’t go together.
When visiting Santa Claus Village, a simple and traditional wood-cooked meal of salmon and potatoes at Santa’s Salmon Place is an excellent way to refuel after walks in the snow. Be advised, there is no reservation system, so queuing outside is the only way to visit. To be in Lapland is also to try meatballs with mashed potato, lingonberry, and pickles. Although found across town, we prefer the easy and filling lunch option at charming Restaurant Gustav. Finally, if strolling through downtown Rovenami, guests might want to make reservations at the Arctic Restaurant, where there is a selection of tasting menus and a la carte dishes, including a memorable creamy crawfish soup and cold smoked reindeer.
After spending days dog sledding, meeting Santa, snowmobiling, and searching for the Northern Lights, guests are sure to arrive at dinner ready for multiple courses. Plan to save room for Leipajuusto, or bread cheese, which is a soft cheese fried and garnished with berries in such a way to be a sweet dessert. It can be eaten warm or cold and is served as a side dish with coffee or with cloudberries. Leipajuusto is Finnish cheese traditionally made from cow’s beestings, rich milk from a cow that has recently calved. Reindeer or even goat milk can also be used.
While a trip to Lapland is incredible, many of these dishes can be used for inspiration this holiday season.
