Paste,* #28 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Although I’ve fallen off the wagon a bit in supporting women in the kitchen (bad Courtney!), with a late confirmation to Bangkok last week, I only had time for one planned meal.  Looking at what was walking distance from my hotel — the next level Rosewood Bangkok, if you’re interested — I found Paste.  Paste is not only acknowledged by Michelin standards but is also on the World’s 50 Best Asia, receiving a #28 spot in the 2019 list.  Bee Satongun, recognized as 2018’s Best Female Chef Asia yes, I still hate that a ‘best female chef’ title is given out because everyone is just a ‘chef’ is connected with the kitchen and getting a restaurant reservation day of, I felt lucky.  Had I a free dinner, I had hoped to check out Gaa — next time, I guess.

Located in the upscale Gaysorn Plaza, Paste is easy to find on the third floor.  The decor is a bit eclectic, with a style I can’t really pin down.  However, as I’m visiting during the day, perhaps it’s a more romantic outlet at night, with more subdued lighting.  I’m seated at a small, private bench.  While there is a bit of confusion about which of the tasting menus I’ll try, we finally sort things out.

As an amuse-bouche, there is a small bite of crab to start, but as I go through the meal, I feel that while many of the dishes are well-conceived, there isn’t enough differentiation between them.  Similarly, the construction of individual dishes doesn’t make sense (flavor-wise).  For example, I love a scallop – but the scallop was lost entirely under mangosteen, lemongrass, and other components that seemed more haphazardly thrown together than finding harmony in their mix.  It could be (of course) that I’m not used to these traditional tastes, but overall, I didn’t see a theme throughout the menu.  In fact, in recalling the meal just two days after eating it, the only dish I can remember was the delightful yellow crab curry, served towards the end of the degustation.  While everything was ‘nice,’ it didn’t rate next to some of the other Asia’s Best restaurants I’ve eaten at.  Additionally, as I discussed with a well-traveled foodie that night, she was looking for a lot more heat in the dishes.  I assumed they had brought down the spice for my palate (#whitegirlspicy), but given her experience, perhaps that was not the case.  I would also ask the kitchen to look at portion sizing on the lunch menu, which bordered on overwhelming. For a few of the dishes, I would consider halving or cutting a course entirely.

Given our recent visit to the simply wonderful Field last month in Prague, I really have no idea how Paste has earned a Michelin star in comparison.  As an overall experience — and this is a lunch degustation against another lunch tasting menu — Field outpaced Paste on every level.  Chatting with another friend who recently visited Paste, we both experienced rather significant service issues – which seems bizarre, because the Thai culture is so welcoming and generous.  My empty glass was left through several courses, without anyone bothering to ask if it should be cleared or if I would like a new drink.  Similarly, my water was empty.  I realize I could (of course) have gotten up and refilled my water, but at a 1 Michelin star venue, this hardly seems the case.  I’m also offered a soup, three courses after I’ve had the exact same soup.  As a final blow, when I want to get the bill, I simply can’t find anyone, even though my meal was clearly finished.  Even when I compare Paste against the Bib Gourmand experience at Eska, I would recommend people to the two Prague meals far before my meal at Paste.

The cost of the tasting menu (including service charge and VAT) with one bottle of sparkling water and one Diet Coke (I skipped alcohol, knowing it would be a late night) was BHT4,567, which roughly equates to $150USD.  Sorry, given that Field — with outstanding alcohol paired on four courses — was $93USD, I’m not really certain why the pricing at Paste is quite so high.  Yes, Paste serves up plenty of food, but given the overall value for money in Bangkok, I’m not really sure this is in line with the market.

Would I go back to Paste?  No.  Not at this time.  For a can’t miss experience in Bangkok, book Suhring and be done with it.

Who is Paste best for?  I think the menu offers a unique take on Thai flavors, but I think there are much better versions of this story around Bangkok.

Where is your favorite fine dining restaurant in Bangkok?