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It's all in the details; why Hōseki is one of my top dining experiences in the UAE. — A TO ZA’ATAR
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It’s all in the details; why Hōseki is one of my top dining experiences in the UAE.

It’s all in the details; why Hōseki is one of my top dining experiences in the UAE.

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After my enjoyable visit to the Yacht Club earlier in the year, I was more than excited to return to Bulgari.  In fact, I enjoy the hotel so much, I arrived early, just so I could do a bit of people watching in the luxe lobby.  Grant me this tendency, as I wrote a novel set at a fictional hotel (available for purchase here).  At the designated time of my reservation, I was shown to the dedicated lift to Hōseki (Japanese for ‘jewel,’ in case you were wondering) and up to the fourth floor I was whisked.  Greeted warmly by name, one of the traditionally attired servers escorted me to the dining room, while explaining the history of the chef.  Entering through the traditional noren, the interior of the restaurant matches the overall Bulgari aesthetic, done in cool black marble, with large windows overlooking the private beach and skyline of Dubai.  The nine seats and chef’s area take up roughly half of the room, and the seats all play to the strengths of the view.

 

As I’ve only dined at one omakase restaurant previously (translated, it’s a ‘let the chef decide’ experience), I was more than excited for my lunch.  The lunch menu stands at AED500, which includes a small starter, a large range of sushi, miso soup, Japanese omelet, and both hot and cold green tea.  A friend of mine immediately balked at this cost, but I think it’s entirely in line with what is offered.  The sheer volume and range of fresh fish presented throughout the meal is on a level I have not previously experienced in Dubai.  As each piece is individually created by a master, I personally see no issue with the cost.

So, why do I rate my experience so highlight?  What are the exact reasons I am giving this restaurant a 5.0 out of 5.0, when I’ve only given this to a handful of other locations in the UAE?  Let’s get into the details.

  • Charming, unobtrusive service.  The team was proactive, friendly, and approachable.  As I was the only diner (#winning), they were lovely company during my meal.  Even with a bit of a language barrier, they were nothing but accommodating (going so far as to quickly find a charger for my rapidly dying phone).  Indeed, after the first piece of sushi, the chef inquired as to whether or not the amount of wasabi was too much or too little.  Upon my request, he dialed down the heat, and the rest of the pieces were pitch perfect for my palate.
  • TheLeft-Hand switch. As a left-handed diner, I can assure you that NOT A SINGLE RESTAURANT in Dubai has noticed my choice.  From the VERY FIRST DISH, a server politely rearranged my plate to make things comfortable for me.  I almost cried.  Given that the majority of the meal is eaten with one’s hand anyway, I found this to be among the best attention to detail I’ve seen in my history of dining in Dubai (and to a greater extent, even the best restaurants in the world rarely make the switch).
  • A correctly sized restaurant for the cuisine and market.  I cannot tell you how excited I was to dine in a venue with nine seats.  My biggest issue, and honestly why I feel that so many outlets in Dubai fail, is because they are far too big.  With just nine seats, the attention for the diner is well above average, and I’d hope the costs would be able to maintain a successful restaurant.  Additionally, anything over fifteen patrons would — to me — go against the intimate aesthetic and ideals of this style of cuisine.
  • The highest quality ingredients. While the environmentalist in me is a bit upset, the reality is that the UAE does not have access to the levels of fish that are in the Tsukiji market in Tokyo, which, incidentally is where the ingredients are flown in from.  Each piece of the many (!) varieties of fish I tried were perfectly fresh.  When proteins like this are allowed to shine, there is not much that needs to be done to enhance them.  The subtlety of each bite was perhaps my favorite part of the meal.
  • A unique offer. While I realize Kohantei is available (and, full disclosure, I have not tried it yet), I know omakase dining is very limited in the UAE.  While there are undoubtedly other outstanding sushi restaurants in Dubai, there is nothing like this style.
  • An immaculate interior.  I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect, but with nine seats, I didn’t feel at all cramped.  Even better? There is a private room with seating for twelve diners.  If money were no option, I would love to host a meal there with close friends.
  • Highly trained chefs.  With a layout that is as open, there is no room to hide.  The chef is creating food directly in front of you.  Overall, there is a sense of reverence, calmness, and an exacting nature that genuinely make watching your sushi being created all part of the experience.
  • An expedient experience.  Although I never felt rushed, I realized the meal took less than an hour (probably made longer by me taking pictures, etc.).  Don’t get me wrong, while I love a four-hour session, the lunch session was precise.  Should you be interested in the dinner service, there are seatings at 6:30 PM and 9:30 PM.

Would I go back to Hōseki?  Yes, on a special occasion.  The price point is quite high, but a visit to Hōseki is certainly cheaper than a trip Tokyo.  In a market full of restaurants that offer much of the same thing, I applaud Hoseki for not only doing something different, but doing it quite well.

Who is Hōseki best for?  Fans of this style of food.  Those looking for something truly different.  I understand the price point (AED900 and up for dinner, not including alcohol) is high, however, if you’re looking for a place to start, the lunch menu is well worth a try.  Just remember, reservations are all but mandatory at this venue.

Highly recommended.
Hōseki - Bvlgari Resort Dubai Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

A to Za’atar was a guest of Hōseki.  Opinions are my own, just ask my husband.

The Verdict
  • Atmosphere
  • Service
  • Price
  • Food
4.9

Summary

Although expensive, a one of a kind offer in the United Arab Emirates.


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