Core by Clare Smyth: The World’s 50 Best Restaurant Female Chef 2018 (and some feminist thoughts).

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As Gordon Ramsay might say, “Let’s get one thing straight…”  That is, I cringe desperately when awards are given in certain fields that recognize one gender and not the other.  In this instance, earlier in 2018, the World’s 50 Best Restaurants identified chef Clare Smyth as the best female chef in the world.  It’s an award they give out every year.  Having worked in a 3 Michelin star venue for many years (Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, 2012-2016), I respect Chef Smyth’s pedigree.

However, this distinction puts me in a conundrum.  Why does an award need to seek out a specific gender, when their current list (and really, the list any year) includes so few restaurants that are female-led?  I know this is not a problem that is going to solve itself overnight, however, I do like that some progress being made in the States (a look at the James Beard nominees year on year shows growth in this balance — look to Eater.com for a number of fantastic articles, including this one, ‘Why Are We Still Failing Women Chefs?,’ among some other fantastic reporting on this subject).  Globally, I know there is a long road ahead of the industry, however, we’re at least in a period where conversations around the topic are taking place.

No matter my feminist agenda™, I promised myself I would start doing more to support minorities in the kitchen — women, POC, basically, anyone who wasn’t a white dude.  No offense to white dudes — I’m happily married to one — but I think there’s enough privilege in the world for these guys.  Thus, with two meals in London, and my pick of places, having already chosen The Ledbury, it was easy to pick Core by Clare Smyth as our other option.

My first impression of Core was a good one.  To start, we were led through a stately, modern interior (not really ideal for those with mobility issues, but this is London and interiors have been around for centuries).  We were shown through the open kitchen (which includes a beautiful chef’s table) and then seated at a two top near the stairs — good for views of the kitchen, but I think if there was a return visit (there won’t be), I would ask for one of the tables at the window for maximum enjoyment (and better lighting).

Before I get into my disappointments and suggestions, I will say that overall, the food was at the level one would expect for this caliber of restaurant — plating was lovely and service was (mostly) on the level.  However, there were definite issues that took away from my expectations.

Here were my biggest takeaways/suggestions:

• Music.  The restaurant lacked any discernible soundtrack, and I found myself enjoying the experience less because of it.  It’s not that I mind the conversation of fellow diners, it’s more that good music can absolutely enhance a dining experience and at this caliber of restaurant, these little details make a difference.
• Pacing.  Here is where the meal, to me, really lost points.  As I’ve explained to almost anyone who will listen, a diner is giving out signals all the time — sometimes subtle, other times a bit more in your face.  In this instance, with a wine pairing, by NOT finishing our glass, or lingering over it and enjoying the flavors, the indication (to me) was clear that we were NOT ready for our next course.  This was not the case at Core.  One glass after another appeared on our table, even if we hadn’t finished our current glass (a personal pet peeve of mine).  This seemed to stack up, and it got to the third or fourth course where we had to ask the waiter to slow the pace of the meal (something I’ve only had to do on VERY limited occasions at this level of restaurant).
  • So, how much does pacing impact you?  Does it bother you when wait staff don’t read you as a diner?
  • Or, do you really not care?  Should the restaurant decide the pace for you?
• Seasoning.  I’m not going to lie, almost half of the courses needed salt.  Not a lot, but some.  Now, I have friends who really push levels of sodium in their dishes, and I usually think – to each their own.  At Core, Hubs and I both found ourselves searching for a salt dish more often than not (and no, there wasn’t one present).  I’m willing to let go of a course or two based on personal preference, but this was noticeable course after course.  This was most noticeable in the Isle of Mull scallop tartar, where we both thought the dish was begging for salty brininess.
• A strange finish.  The back to back super sweet dishes and lack of a palate cleanser were, to me, a weird choice.  We enjoyed the strawberry dish (served second), but not the OTT cough syrup sweet cherry inspired dessert.  I would’ve much rather have seen something chocolate, citrus, or, honestly, just cutting the cherry dish altogether.
• Other diners.  Specifically, the six top next to us who showed up nowhere near the dress code, with children (who proceeded to play on their gaming devices throughout the entirety of our meal).  Here’s where I’m going to be a snob.
  • Why couldn’t they have been sat in the spacious lounge area?  It was clear that they were not dressed for the occasion (jean shorts, baseball hats).
  • Why weren’t they straight up turned away, or told to return once they had changed clothes?  It’s not that Hubs and I were wearing couture, but we did make something of an effort (as did everyone else in the restaurant).
  • I don’t remember being reminded of the dress code when called for confirmation, however, perhaps this was the right time to at least mention that jean shorts and baseball hats might be best at other venues.
  • If children are well behaved, sure, bring them along, however, at a certain level of restaurant, I think a 12 and over, or 15 and over policy is probably the best look, and that gaming devices might be best left at home.
  • Also, just wondering about the girl behind us who asked, “Do you have any non-alcoholic beer?”
  • Snobby?  Yes, but I think all of the above is an insult to the kitchen.

Of course, it wasn’t all bad.  The Potato and Roe (one of the signature dishes, including dulse beurre blanc, herring, and trout roe) was absolutely fantastic.  Even though we were rushed, the service was nice (not as a memorable or personal as other places, but still very professional and polite).  Additionally, I thought the price GBP105 per person (GBP95 for the wine pairing).

Would I go back?  No, not at this time, for many of the reasons listed above.  Even though Clare has worked in a three Michelin star restaurant, I think it will be a few years before Core is awarded one.

Who is Core by Clare Smyth best for?  Well, a table of tourists who had no appreciation of fine dining certainly seemed to enjoy themselves.

Have you gone to a venue where your expectations weren’t met?  How did you feel after your meal?