Where to begin? As I’m sure you’ve gathered by now, in a city like Bangkok, visitors are absolutely spoiled for new, exciting and modern restaurants, from fine dining to street food (and just about everything in between). Previous to dining at Sühring, I hadn’t heard much about the venue, only that it was vaguely in the genre of ‘modern German’ (and what modern German is doing in Bangkok is a wonderful example of how creative the culinary scene in Thailand is).
Sühring showcases the best of modern German fare inspired by childhood memories, family recipes and years of travelling experience combining the essence of traditional dishes with contemporary Central European influences. All elevated to the level of haute cuisine. Mathias, Thomas and the Sühring team invite their guests to their home, offering a warm hospitality in a relaxed, yet elegant environment.
Sühring is situated in an old 70’s home, retrofitted in a straight from a modern design catalog method for the restaurant. Stepping off the busy streets of the city, this is an oasis from the moment you walk down the lush green path to step through the front doors. I loved the amount of windows, allowing for natural light and a view to the garden. My dining partner and I were fortunate enough to be seated at the Chef’s Table (which, if you can make the request, I highly recommend). While the other tables are certainly accommodating (including the intimate private dining floor), a seat in the kitchen is a foodie dream.
With so many courses, I thought it best to break down my favorites, and a dish I thought didn’t particularly work. Should you visit, I would encourage you to go for the tasting menu, as you will not be disappointed.
First and foremost, I appreciated the number of snacks (is this the industry standard term for all the yummy bites that come out before the actual courses?) that started the degustation. Masterfully made, all were a work of art and quite delicious.
Currywurst 36 (a play on Berlin street food) delivered a perfect mouthful of slightly spicy meat with a crunchy bit of cracker and just a touch of creamy sauce. Wonderfully seasoned, this was the type of snack I could eat a trayful of and like so much of this menu, just enough to leave you wanting more.
Sure, call me crazy, but I love a good salad and honestly don’t see it included in enough tasting menus (I realize I might be alone in this opinion, but it’s my belief). Thus, when the Vorspeise (with an inclusion of 26 leaves and vegetables, paired with a light and fresh dressing) was served, I was in heaven. Please, awesome chefs of the world, take note! More greens — they are not only refreshing, but also serve as a great transition from snacks to heavier courses.
While there were many delicious dishes in between, my main, Japanese Nozaki Beef Sirloin A5, was tender and the perfect portion size. The au jus was just enough and the plating sublime. I realize I’m running out of adjectives here, but honestly, this was an outstanding serving of beef.
The handmade Spatzle (we opted for the truffle addition) was simply divine (and the inclusion of the fresh truffle sends the plate over the top). The fresh pasta portion was just enough to fulfill and one of those dishes I was still thinking about the following morning.
Not for Me
With as many courses as we enjoyed, there was bound to be one that I thought didn’t work, or, in this case, interrupted the flow of the meal. For example, my dining partner was not a fan of the bread, cheese, and charcuterie course, while I absolutely loved it. I thought it added a personal touch of homestyle German (and was also delicious). Of course, everyone has their own opinion. I personally thought the Saltmeadow lamb from Piet van den Berg was a strange fit into a very well-paced meal (yes, unlike most Dubai venues who want to run guests through the service, Sühring was absolutely on the mark for pacing and delivery). At this point in the service, there was no need for another protein (the main courses of steak and duck more than accomplished this) and thus would edit the plate completely from the menu (lovely as it looks).
Overall, there is much to celebrate at Sühring who are very well deserved at #13 in Asia’s Top 50 Restaurants. I didn’t list the finale of the meal, a Grandmother’s secret recipe egg nog which might be the best thing I’ve drunk in a very long time. Suffice to say, we claimed
begged three rounds before leaving.
And now for my slightly controversial statement. I liked Sühring better than Gaggan. There, I’ve said it. While Gaggan’s emoji menu was wildly creative and his front of house the best I’ve experienced in the world of fine dining, Sühring’s front of house was 99% as wonderful and the menu much more cohesive. Of course, at this level, I believe that it comes down to a diner’s interpretation and opinion. Both restaurants should be very proud of what they are producing. However, if you can only go to one restaurant in Bangkok, my vote is for Sühring.
A to Za’atar was a guest of Sühring. Opinions are my own, just ask my husband.